A bullet hole in the wall of the now derelict home of Hernan Arias Restrepo in the village of Villa Arteaga. Hernan was the first victim of a massacre of eleven villagers by right-wing paramilitaries of the self-named Farmers' Self-defences of Cordoba and Uraba (known by their Spanish acronym Ð ACCU). Minutes after the armed men left, the survivors began gathering what little they could and they fled. Within hours the village was empty and over the years that followed it fell into decay. One day, years later a bulldozer contracted by a large landowner arrived and flattened the remaining homes and now cows graze where the homes once stood.