In his one-room house, Peter Lukyamuzi (50), HIV-positive for 15 years, takes his anti-retrovirals every day at 10 in the night. ''I used to be a boat pilot. I was going to distant islands. I had a woman in each port and I did not protect myself. When I started to lose weight, my parents thought that a witch doctor had put a spell on me.'' One day, a medical worker advised him to get tested and on doing so Peter discovered he was HIV positive. Today, the HIV prevalence rate on the islands is 16%. The national rate is 6.2%.